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Beginning where the Mayan Riviera ends, the Costa Maya
stretches along the coastline down to Belize. No where near as
much development has occurred here as the Riviera. Highway 307
veers away from the coast and by the time it gets to Felipe
Carrillo Puerto you are more than 50 km away from the coast.
Driving along dirt roads one can cruise the coastline, however,
the roads are not well maintained and a 4-wheel drive vehicle is
recommended.
The Costa Maya is the last remaining section of coastal
properties yet to be exploited and there are acres of coastal land
with absolutely no development. The odd fishing village spots the
landscape but not much beyond that. Flying along the coastline you
encounter numerous cenotes and you can still see the outlines and
impressions of villages that were there centuries ago.
FELIPE CARRILLO PUERTO
Driving along the Costa Maya on highway 307 you do not encounter
much except butterflies until you reach the city of Felipe
Carrillo Puerto which is located 226 km from Cancun. Unlike Playa
del Carmen and Cancun, Carrillo Puerto is a Mayan city and
considered the most cosmopolitan Mayan city in the Peninsula. Rich
with history Carrillo Puerto successfully blends traditional Mayan
life with the advancements of modern technologies.
What you will notice in Carrillo Puerto is that the residents
are extremely proud and dignified. You will not find the same kind
of atmosphere here as you do in Cancun or Cozumel. What you do
find is a stronger cultural ambiance. In fact if you are a
"gringo" the locals will pay you no-mind what so ever.
Even elder Mayans here are friendly if not completely ambivalent
towards tourists. With no beaches near, this city is not a major
tourist destination and you can go a full day here without seeing
another tourist. This can be an interesting experience as just
when you thought you had found a place void of absolutely every
other "gringo" one walks around a corner and surprises
you. The look of astonishment is usually mutual.
The Story of the Talking Cross
In 1847 after years of suffering, yet another Mayan village was
destroyed at the hands of the invaders. Tepich laid waste and its
people massacred. This intensified the Mayans resolve to fight
back and reclaim their ancestral lands and gain autonomy for
themselves. The Caste War escalated and it was during this period
that a miracle occurred to a group of Mayans camping at a cenote
in Kampocolche.
A small cross miraculously spoke to the people. The "small
sacred cross" became "Chan Santa Cruz" and its
notoriety quickly spread amongst the people. A Temple, the Balam
Na, was constructed in its honor and soon living quarters and
barracks were built around the Temple. Here lived the Mayan High
Elders as well as the "Tata Polin", the interpreter of
the Talking Cross.
By 1901 federal troops had occupied the town and the Maya
Rebels had withdrawn deep into the jungle. The Temple was
destroyed and its rocks used to build a Catholic Church.
Today the cenote where the cross first appeared and a small
monument built to commemorate the event can still be seen in
Carrillo Puerto at calle 69 and 58. The Talking Cross was never
captured by the federals and its whereabouts remains a secret to
this very day.
MAJAHUAL
Just south of the small village of Limones on highway 307 is the
exit for Majahual, which is located about an hour's drive east on
the coast. Some people call it Mahahual with an "h".
Majahual town is a small fishing village that is gearing up to
be the next Playa del Carmen. Much of the town has been purchased
by speculators that hope the boom will eventually get down that
way as it did in Playa. In fact many of the new residents are from
Cancun or elsewhere.
In 2000 they finally completed their dock, which was certified
to accept cruise ships, unfortunately the first ship that docked
crashed into the new dock. Work to rebuild the dock was completed
and cruise ships are presently docking there.
There is a new airport close to the coast however when we last
visited, the power lines had not been strung all the way thus
there was no power and the airport was dormant. We have not heard
of any flights going to this airport yet, so we assume it is still
not completed.
There is a road that runs along the coast however it is no
longer under federal control and has become a pot-holed half road
half sand path trail. It is a slow bumpy ride however if you avoid
Majahual town and stay at Maya Ha then there is a brand new paved
road that takes you almost all the way there. The remaining dirt
road is a minor inconvenience and well worth the drive.
Majahual is best known for its diving with the world famous
Chinchorro Reefs off the coast. The beaches are totally secluded
and mostly natural. Real estate is moving in this neck of the
woods and small cabanas are popping up in ever-increasing numbers.
This does not however transcribe into more people, as many of the
landowners do not live on the property. This area attracts a lot
of divers as well as bohemians who find the rustic lifestyle
appealing. There are also numerous American expatriates living in
the area which makes for lively conversation and socializing.
XCALAK
Xcalak is a small fishing village on the tip of the peninsula. It
is the most southeastern point of Mexico. This is an excellent
place for divers and fisherman. Marlin, dorado, and sailfish
abound in offshore waters and tarpon and shad in the coastal
lagoons.
LAGUNA BACALAR
Just east of highway 307, 125 km from Felipe Carrillo Puerto is
the beautiful Laguna Bacalar. With crystal clear freshwater and
gleaming white sands it is a rare jewel in the jungle.
The lake, known as the "Laguna de Siete Colores"
[lake of seven colours] is linked to the Bahia de Chetumal [Chetumal
Bay]. It gets its name from the seven different colours of water
that appear throughout the lake. In some parts of the lake you can
actually walk across and never get your hair wet. Along the
coastline there are numerous rock formations that jut out like
stone mushrooms that one can relax on and kick your feet in the
warm water. There is the odd small island that abounds with birds.
In 1544 after the local residents either fled or were captured
for slaves the village of Salamanca de Bacalar was founded. Over
the years the village changed hands between the Mayans and the
Spanish until marauding pirates forced the Spanish Monarchy to
build a fort to protect the inhabitants. In 1859 the Mayans
captured the fort and reclaimed the village only to surrender it
in 1901 to federal troops.
Today the fort remains as a museum exhibiting colonial
armaments and uniforms from the 17th and 18th centuries.
CHETUMAL
Chetumal is the capital City of the State of Quintana Roo. It is
situated in the most southwestern part of mainland Mexico, 382 km
from Cancun on highway 307 or 414 km from Merida via highway 184.
Chetumal was home to a number of coastal living Indians who
traded marine assets with the mainlanders. Natural tributaries as
well as man made causeways created the mode of transportation
linking settlements as far away as Kohunlich. By the time the
conquistadors arrived the splendor of the region was long gone and
only sporadic fishing settlements remained. With the ever
increasing number of British appearing to the south the Mexican
government acted and in 1898 the "Spencer-Mariscal"
treaty was signed acknowledging the border between Mexico and
British Honduras [now Belize]. A garrison was established at Payo
Obispo and troops stationed in an effort to curtail the illegal
flow of arms and hardwoods. After the Caste War people migrated to
the small village which then changed its name to Chetumal. In 1915
the regional government was moved from Chan Santa Cruz to Chetumal
which then became the capital.
Today Chetumal has a population of over 120,000 people and all
the amenities of any large city. It is also a major trading center
between Belize and the rest of Mexico.
The city center is quite manageable on foot. Once you find the
main intersection of Avenida de los Heroes and Avenida Alvaro
Obregon you're within a short walk of several inexpensive hotels.
The best hotels Chetumal has to offer are within five blocks of
this intersection. You are also a short taxi ride away from the
beaches.
Chetumal has an excellent Mayan museum well worth the visit. It
is located downtown quite close to a large market for shopping.
RUIN SITES
Ruin sites located in or near the Costa Maya are:
Muyil
Dzibanche
Kinichna
Kohunlich
Oxtankah
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